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FAQ
This page will continually get updated with questions often asked.
Please see this page.
Some users report first erasing the flash (yes, even on a new device) sometimes helps .
The gpio2/D4 pin needs to be high (pullup) at powerup time for the controller to boot successfully. If you accidentally connected the strip the wrong way (if it has arrows printed on, make sure they face away from the pin, otherwise pay attention to the DIN printing). Most strips have the 3-pin male JST connector with 3 holes on the input side. Some users have reported troubles booting even with the direction being correct. In that case, please try adding a 3.3 or 4.7kOhms resistor between the data pin and 3v3 pin!
If you did not enter a static IP, the module will automatically obtain a dynamic IP from the router. You can check it in the router configuration or in the settings page, if the Access Point is still enabled. An easier way is to use the WLED Android app which features automatic discovery!
First, make sure you can reach the connected WiFi yourself (with another device). See if you can connect to the Access Point, then go to 4.3.2.1/reset. Else, power-cycle the module manually.
This only works with Apple devices out of the box. You can install Bonjour to make it work in Windows. For Android there is no convenient way to achieve it, though you can use apps like "Bonjour search" to find the IP. I highly recommend you install the WLED app, which makes automatic discovery easy!
See this page.
You are probably using too many sync interfaces. Please only enable one of Hue sync, MQTT, or Blynk at a time. For optimal performance, use two devices and sync them via the UDP notifier. Maybe you are also using a very high amount of LEDs. 750 is the recommended maximum.
Please open an issue or message me on Discord to resolve your issue. Most of the time, wiping the flash (Arduino IDE compile setting: Erase flash -> All flash contents) resolves the issue. Unfortunately it will also reset all your settings and presets. You can also try if using a different ESP resolves the issue. If you compiled with lwip version 2, try version 1.4 Higher Bandwidth instead!
Try disabling "Emulate Alexa device" in Sync settings before entering your home Wifi credentials. Check whether mDNS is on or off and toggle it: does it make a difference? Same for 'NTP'. Same for 'Sync Send'. Check your router: is your 2.4Ghz on band 1: if not, try it please. If you have the possibility to try another 8266, please try it.
Try building again. If the error says the wled00.ino.cpp or .sconsign27.db.dblite file could not be found, this often helps.
You can also try this!
Please make sure you have connected the strip to GPIO2 and it is sufficiently powered.
If the brightness slider in the UI is already at maximum, try checking the auto brightness limiter in the LED settings. Set the milliamp limit to slightly below the rating of your power supply. If the LEDs are still too dim or change color towards the end of the strip, there may be a significant voltage drop. Try injecting 5v power at the end or middle of the strip with some appropriate cabling.
Depending on the type of LEDs used, Red and Green or other colors might be reversed. You can change the order in LED settings. WS2812B and most related chips use GRB, WS2811 uses RGB in most cases.
If you use an external 5V power supply for your LEDs, please connect the GND of power supply, LEDs, and ESP. Otherwise, the LEDs can't read the data signal from the ESP.
The ESP8266 is a 3.3V microcontroller while the WS2812B LED uses 5V. I have personally got away with this in most cases, but you should technically add a level shifter. A string of WS2811 did not work in one case (pure static white). A possible workaround is chaining a single WS2812B pixel in front and checking "Skip first LED" in the settings. My recommended levelshifter is the SN74AHCT125N, also used in the QuinLED Dig-Uno board. If you don't have a level shifter, you can use this creative workaround.
Your data line can only be so long. Try out with less or thicker wire between your data pin on your controller and the LED strip, or add (see video) some voltage booster (which can make even 40m data wire length work ;-)).
If they don't flicker, but display funny colors, try switching between RGB/RGBW modes in LED settings.
By default the LED count is set to 30. If you have more and can power them, go to LED settings and increase the LED count! Please also enter the milliamp rating of your 5v power supply for optimal brightness in the field below it. Do not increase the mA number if you power LEDs directly from the 5V pin of the ESP!
WLED supports up to 1500 individual LEDs right now (recommended maximum is 750 LEDs).
An LED in your chain may be broken. Try another strip or removing the first LED that doesn't light up. Make sure you are in solid effect mode and the LED count is set high enough first!
This LED can be very distracting. Unfortunately it can't easily be disabled as it shares the gpio2/D4 pin with the LED output. Currently there are 3 workarounds:
- Cover the LED
- Remove the LED permanently (desolder or apply pressure with e.g. a flathead screwdriver)
- Use a different
LEDPIN, although the default is recommended for stable operation
Although pins D1 and D2 are usually regarded the best GPIO pins to use in an ESP8266 project, D4 is the default in WLED, despite having two major and one minor drawback. The major drawbacks are the permanently lit blue onboard LEDs and the fact that the pin level needs to be high (pullup) at powerup or the controller will not boot. A minor drawback is that the Serial1 bus can not be used, but this is irrelevant in most cases, as the USB/serial converter is connected to the other Serial interface. The reason for using this pin is that it uses UART hardware driving, which increases stability and decreases CPU overhead especially with larger amounts of pixels.
The problem is the DMA hardware driving method used on (just) that pin. It works well, but uses 4x (!) as much RAM memory as the UART hardware driving on pin 2 and the bitbang driver on all other pins.
WiFi Lighting Effects Driver. Also it has LED in the name and is similar to the official term for WiFi, WLAN!
The compatible chipsets for the color-coding are
-
1 pin:
- WS2812B (5V)
- WS2811 (12V power, with 5V signal)
- WS2813 (WS2812 with redundant data on 2 wires DI and BI, to resist LEDs failure)
- WS2815 (like WS2813 but 12V), send 5V signal on BI.
- BTF2815 (cheaper 12V)
- SK6813 (redundant like WS2813)
- SK6812 (can support up to 4 colors, commonly GRBW)
- SK6805 (3 colors)
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2 pins (clock CI and data DI) chips:
- APA102
- SK9822
- WS2801 (uses gpio0 and 2)
- LPD8806
Beside the digital addressable LED stripes the good old analog LED stripes are supported, too:
- 4 pins: RGB
- 5 pins: RGBW / RGBWW / RGBCW / RGBNW (RGB + one white channel)
- 6 pins: RGBCT (RGB + 2 white channels)
You can check out and use the WLED Discourse forum.
Maybe someone already reported your issue, so everybody supplying support would be grateful if you take some time to search through the existing issues.
When you create a ticket, please share:
- exact controller, maybe a link to the shop you bought it from
- LED-strip type and amount of LEDs
- Specifications of your power supply (max. current/voltage)
- how you wired up all components (a diagram and/or picture often helps)
- the BIN-file you tried to flash (version and file name) or your IDE version if compiling from source
- Have you followed the quick start and compile settings at https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki ?
- Has it worked before?
- Does it works without any LEDs connected? (for instance the controller just connected to your PC over USB)
- Are you using/trying to use DHCP or static IP?
- Did you try to use a mobile hotspot instead of your WLAN AP/home wifi?
- List of effects and palettes
- Macros & Button
- Multi strip
- Presets
- Segments
- Webserver sitemap
- Control a relay
- Blynk
- DMX Output
- E1.31 (DMX) / Art-Net
- UDP Realtime / tpm2.net
- HTTP Request API
- Infrared
- JSON API
- MQTT
- Philips hue sync
- WebSocket
- WLED UDP sync