From 8f0591db4aa5c2791b7f34b63861222d495c5add Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Max Young Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2023 09:51:01 -0500 Subject: [PATCH] update gitignore AGAIN --- site/search/search_index.json | 2 +- site/sitemap.xml.gz | Bin 127 -> 127 bytes 2 files changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/site/search/search_index.json b/site/search/search_index.json index 6d114dba..511e30b2 100644 --- a/site/search/search_index.json +++ b/site/search/search_index.json @@ -1 +1 @@ -{"config":{"lang":["en"],"separator":"[\\s\\-]+","pipeline":["stopWordFilter"]},"docs":[{"location":"index.html","title":"Welcome to My Mod Page!","text":""},{"location":"index.html#intro","title":"Intro","text":"

I decided to make a website to showcase my Kobra Go and the mods I\u2019ve performed to it.

I\u2019ll be keeping this up to date to the best of my ability!

"},{"location":"index.html#recommended-order-of-modifications","title":"Recommended Order of Modifications","text":""},{"location":"index.html#klipper","title":"Klipper","text":"

This upgrade can be performed on a stock machine, making it one of the most cost efficient upgrades.

"},{"location":"index.html#direct-drive","title":"Direct Drive","text":"

Cost and time will be the biggest sinks here, as wires will need to be extended and crimped. The cost also increases as a DD extruder must be obtained.

"},{"location":"index.html#enclosure","title":"Enclosure","text":"

The highest cost and time sink. Lots of components will be needed and lots of wires extended.

"},{"location":"index.html#current-status","title":"Current Status","text":""},{"location":"about.html","title":"About","text":"

Welcome to my journey modifying my Kobra Go! I initially got this printer on sale at MicroCenter as my very first. From here I started with their basic software and hardware but was unsatisfied with the print quality. Linear advance didnt work, the bed leveling was slow, and the print speeds were\u2026 ok.

As someone who enjoys tinkering I began doing just that! I decided to first post it on the unofficial anycubic subreddit. Soon after another user reached out to me that a github site may be ideal for easy updates and such, to which I agreed! So here we are!

I hope to keep this documentation as up-to-date as I can and as detailed as possible.

"},{"location":"mods/arctic-40mm.html","title":"Arctic 40mm Fan","text":"

Extremely worth it. Once dialed in with the correct voltage this fan can move some air! Not only can it move an adequate amount of air, it can do so with a low sound profile. This fan isnt \u2018silent\u2019 however it is much better than smaller fans in that it doesnt produce the annoying pitch that they do. Overall, highly recommended! Just be sure to trim the pot down a lot as this is a server fan and can spin up really fast.

"},{"location":"mods/arctic-40mm.html#installation","title":"Installation","text":"

This fan can be used on the HMG7 or on the ENLDI print head. Ensure that a buck converter is powering the fan from the hotend port on the motherboard.

Fan Speed!

Please be careful with this fan, these are 1U server fans and can spin up to 6K rpm (15k rpm on some versions). A fan this small at that speed can do some serious damage! Make sure you turn the buck converter down to around 5v to start and keep your fingers away from the blades.

"},{"location":"mods/belted-z-axis.html","title":"Belted Z-Axis","text":"

This belted z-axis mod from Kevin is one of the more involved upgrades one can perform on a Kobra Go. It involves replacing the two rear brackets with some 3D printed ones which then have to be modified to fit the eccentric nut that the Go uses. The crossbar of the frame must also be removed and replaced with a standard 2020 aluminum extrusion.

"},{"location":"mods/belted-z-axis.html#replacing-the-crossbar","title":"Replacing the Crossbar","text":"

In order to replace the crossbar one must obtain some 2020 aluminum extrusion. A single extrusion must then be cut to 330mm in length, and holes drilled through the top to secure it onto the frame. I used a drill press at work, and made a stencil to get the holes correct.

After this modification is complete, just follow the steps outlined in the guide on Kevins website! Oh also be sure to order one of the kits from the vendors he recommends! I ordered mine from DFH and had a good experience.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html","title":"Easy Mods","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#silicone-spacers","title":"Silicone Spacers","text":"

These spacers offer a much more consistent leveling process and wont warp the bed! The only catch is this mod needs one printed spacer to offset the creality cut-out.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#capricorn-bowden-tube","title":"Capricorn Bowden Tube","text":"

This is apparently a standard upgrade for the low end printer market. I personally have found this to make little to no difference, and recommend spending the money elsewhere.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#hotends","title":"Hotends","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#microswiss-hotend","title":"MicroSwiss Hotend","text":"

After owning this for about a year now I can say this: get a different hotend!

This product has been quite problematic for me as of recent. The beginning was great, everything worked well and was built well. However when it came to nozzle changes things got bad. This hotend uses a single set-screw to keep the heat block/throat attached to the heat-sink. Well, when one needs to change a nozzle they need to rotate the nozzle whilst holding the heat block to remove it. The single set screw is insufficient to properly hold it and will come loose every time. I\u2019ve even had it some loose after ~30hrs of print time, leading to many a clog!

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#e3d-revo-nozzle","title":"E3D Revo Nozzle","text":"

A worthy successor?

I will likely be upgrading to one of Revo3D\u2019s \u2018quick change\u2019 hotends. I\u2019ve found that I like to use a variety of diameters for my prints, easy nozzle changes would be awesome compared to what I\u2019m currently dealing with. When this upgrade is purchased I\u2019ll write a more complete review here.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#pulleysframe","title":"Pulleys/Frame","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#steel-pulley-set","title":"Steel Pulley Set","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#y-axis","title":"Y-Axis","text":"

After some time I noticed that my y-axis began to squeak and have some irregular movement. When I took the stock end apart I saw that while there was a metal axle and bearing, the rest of the assembly was plastic! While not bad in theory, for my use case and faster speeds this simply would not do. Not only that, but over time the metal axle will eat into its plastic housing and cause the printer to become unaligned. I then looked into finding an all-metal y-axis and found this one! The y-axis fits stock, even using the stock bolt holes in the frame!

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#x-axis","title":"X-Axis","text":"

The pulley that comes in that kit is semi-compatible with the printer, but it will have to be at maximum extension and secured with only one bolt. If one wished they could drill and tap a new hole into the x-axis. I\u2019ve found that the single bolt is sufficient.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html","title":"The Enclosure","text":"

As many 3d printer enthusiasts will tell you, an enclosure is the best of all worlds. You can keep VOC\u2019s (mostly) contained, reduce temperature fluctuations, control ambient temp, and much more! It was (and still is) my goal to make an enclosure that is both compatible with the Kobra Go form factor and somewhat nice looking.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html#about-the-project","title":"About the Project","text":"

This has been a goal of mine ever since I obtained this printer. To build a \u2018bespoke\u2019 Lack enclosure for the printer. I initially was going to build one of the many existing projects out there, but found that none of them matched exactly what I wanted, nor did they fit the Go. I will be doing my best to fully document the build process, although not many photos were taken.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html#bought-parts-list","title":"Bought Parts List","text":"Item Quantity Description IKEA Lack Tables 3 These will form the structure of the enclosure. 22AWG Wire 1 Generic wire for various applications. Neodynium Magnets 1 These will be what secure the top to the enclosure. Govee LED Strip 1 These attach to the ceiling of the upper lid to provide light. 12v Fan PSU 1 Power for the two 120mm fans that will be used as exhaust and filter. Arctic BioniX P12 2 Fans for aformentioned filter and exhasut system. PWM Controller 2-3 These are needed for fan control for the exhausts and optional internal filter. PTFE Tubing/Fittings 1 Plenty of fittings for this project and future ones. WinSinn 12v 5015 Fans 2 This is a pack of four fans, these are quite useful for 3D printing in general, you only need two for this project though. Activated Carbon & Filter 1 These packs are made specifically for the bento box and are a great starting point if it will be part of your build! Fan Extensions 7 Be sure to order the 80cm versions as they will be needed to power the exhaust fans and filter from the PSU to the control panel. Plexiglass 2 609mm x 448mm x 4.5mm Plexiglass 1 606mm x 443mm x 4.5mm

Plexiglass vs Foam Board

Plexiglass is not the end-all-be-all. A cheaper (and probably better) alternative is some kind of PVC foam board. The enlcosure is designed for the following rear dimensions of 18in. x 24in. x 0.236in. Yes I realize I switched to imperial, I\u2019m sorry, thats just what the website says. I had to convert it in the design anyway. Other foam board can work as well so long as it is close to 4.5mm thick to fit into the slots in the legs.

Take Note!

More may be added to this list in the future, this is what I can recall in this moment. A lot more than those parts went into this design, the printer itself also had to be modified.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html#printed-parts","title":"Printed Parts","text":"

I\u2019ve compiled all my parts into a zip file divided into sections for easy sorting and printing.

Item Author Description Enclosure Build Files @me These are the files for the bones of the enclosure, included the exhaust and handles etc. PTFE Tube Conduit @fuchsr Pass through tube for the filament into the enclosure. Bento Box @thrutheframe The bento box is an internal air scrubber that I find to be beneficial for stinkier filaments (ABS, ASA, etc.) Bento Box 5015 Adaptor @SSX556 This adaptor is included with the bento box, this modification moves more air in a quieter manner vs the stock box.

Developmental

Do keep in mind this is all in development and is my first time designing something that is as involved as this. There are a lot of moving parts, and this is not an \u2018easy\u2019 project. I found it to be a bit annoying as my tolerances were too tight with the parts, this may be an issue for you!

"},{"location":"mods/motherboard-swap.html","title":"Replacing the Mainboard","text":"

I was unsatisfied with the motherboard that the Kobra Go came with, the steppers arent swappable, the pinout isnt published, and the overall knowledge of the board is very limited.

"},{"location":"mods/motherboard-swap.html#bigtreetech-skr30","title":"BigTreeTech SKR3.0","text":"

I looked to some alternatives and settled on the BTT SKR3. This board is fully supported by both marlin and klipper and has extensive documentation hosted on its github. The main downside to this motherboard is its name: its not very well known in the maker-space. This can make finding bespoke tutorials for the board difficult. You will also need to procure stepper motors for this board, as it does not come with any.

"},{"location":"mods/motherboard-swap.html#bigtreetech-skr-mini-e3","title":"BigTreeTech SKR-Mini E3","text":"

The smaller brother of the SKR3 is the SKR Mini, a board with a smaller form factor and hard-wired stepper motors. The board is much more well known in the maker-space, being one of the most popular aftermarket boards available. I personally do not run the Mini, but see no reason why it would be less capable than the SKR3. You do lose the custom stepper motor choices, and some fan ports, as well as an entire stepper, but those may not be deal breakers. If you\u2019re looking for something basic and more cost effective than the SKR3, the Mini will suit you well!

"},{"location":"mods/orbiter-2.html","title":"Orbiter 2.0","text":"

The direct drive upgrade! I finally made this upgrade around August, what a game changer it has been! Bowden be gone, direct drive is in town! This upgrade, as with all, can be condensed into some pros and cons.

Pros

Cons

I highly recommend this modification, it has reduced printer downtime and increased print quality tremendously. That being said I would recommend you to invest in either the belted dual-z or a traditional lead screw z-axis to offset the increase weight of the drive. The x-axis can sag at full extension, best to keep that in mind if maintaining the OEM z-axis.

This mod was done in parallel to the ENDLI Orbiter 2.0 printhead mod. This combination is highly recommended!

"},{"location":"mods/print-heads.html","title":"Print Heads","text":""},{"location":"mods/print-heads.html#hero-me-gen7","title":"Hero Me Gen7","text":"

Pros

Cons

Carriage adapter endstop fix

I modified the carriage adapter ensuring it triggers the endstop correctly.

Although to start this was a good solution, I\u2019m sorry to say that the novelty wore on me. Not only was having dual 5015 fans overkill, the maintenance and annoyances I had with this setup far exceeded the nice print time I had with it. Valiant effort, but not for me.

"},{"location":"mods/print-heads.html#endli-orbiter-20","title":"ENDLI Orbiter 2.0","text":"

Pros

Cons

X-Endstop Compatibility

The ENDLI print head does not properly trigger the x-endstop. To combat this, I designed my own X-endstop mount which positions the switch such that it should hit the frame of the fan attached. I would recommend sensorless homing as well. It will work for stock setups and needs only minor modification.

After some debate I ended up replacing the standard Kobra Go carriage plate with one from an Ender 3 (Link here). I made this call after getting fed up with the lack of support in the general community. I could have modified countless files and made adapters, or I could spend a relatively small amount of money and save myself the headache. Cheating? Kind of. Worth it? Yes.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html","title":"Klipper for the Kobra Go!","text":"

Thanks to /u/xpeng121 we now have Klipper on the Go! Klipper is similar to marlin, but offloads a lot of the complex calculations to a head unit (pc/raspi) which allows for faster print speeds and artifact-reduction.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#euipment-needed","title":"Euipment Needed","text":"Item Quantity Description RaspberryPi/Linux Box 1 The \u2018head unit\u2019 of the operation, these handle the klipper instance. 32-Bit Motherboard with USB 1 The mainboard continues to operate the actual printer. It acts on instructions sent from the head.

Note on Pi Usage

A raspberry pi is not the end-all-be-all of a klipper setup, but it is one of the more compact and well supported solutions on the market. If a Pi is unobtainable for whatever reason, or out of your budget, dont worry! If you have an older laptop or PC you can use that to run klipper. You just need a machine that is capable of running linux, if you have that you can run klipper! To install and configure follow the guides on the main site, Klipper.org

This mod can be done with a completely stock machine! It should be the first upgrade one performs if they have the ability to do so.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#installing-klipper","title":"Installing Klipper","text":"

  1. Clone the klipper repository onto a local drive with the following command:

    git clone https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper.git

  2. To compile the firmware, follow the tutorial found on the official site: Klipper Installation and Configuration

  3. Once the firmware has been compiled, rename it from \u2018klipper.bin\u2019 to \u2018firmware.bin\u2019. Move the \u2018firmware.bin\u2019 file onto a microSD card of your choice, insert it into your printer, and wait about 5min. After the 5min is up remove the sd card and power cycle the printer.

  4. Config file:

    Continue to follow the klipper tutorial guide, the following is supplemental to the main guide.

    Warning

    Please review these settings and fully understand them before implementation. I\u2019ve blocked some out that could be problematic and should throw errors. Ensure this is correct before you deploy!

    Kobra Go 
    # This file contains a configuration for the Anycubic Kobra Go printer.\n#\n# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.\n#\n# To build the firmware, use the following configuration:\n#   - Micro-controller: Huada Semiconductor HC32F460\n#   - Communication interface: Serial (PA3 & PA2) - Anycubic\n#\n# Installation:\n#  1. Rename the klipper bin to `firmware.bin` and copy it to an SD Card.\n#  2. Power off the Printer, insert the SD Card and power it on.\n#  3. The the LCD will be stuck on the Firmware-update screen.\n#     Just Wait for 3-5 minutes to ensure the firmware is flashed.\n#  4. After waiting, shutdown the printer and remove the SD Card.\n\n[stepper_x]\nstep_pin: PA12\ndir_pin: PA11\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 40\nendstop_pin: !PH2\nposition_endstop: -13\nposition_min:-13\nposition_max: 236\nhoming_speed: 50\n\n[stepper_y]\nstep_pin: PA9\ndir_pin: PA8\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 40\nendstop_pin: ^!PC13\nposition_endstop: -9\nposition_min:-9\nposition_max: 230\nhoming_speed: 50\n\n[stepper_z]\nstep_pin: PC7\ndir_pin: !PC6\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 8\nendstop_pin: ^PC14\nposition_endstop: 0\nposition_min: -10\nposition_max: 255\nhoming_speed: 5\n\n[extruder]\nstep_pin: PB15\ndir_pin: PB14\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 31.07\nmax_extrude_only_velocity: 25\nmax_extrude_only_accel: 1000\nnozzle_diameter: 0.400\nfilament_diameter: 1.750\nheater_pin: PB8\nsensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2\nsensor_pin: PC3\nmin_extrude_temp: 170\nmin_temp: 0\nmax_temp: 250\ncontrol: pid\npid_kp: 19.56\npid_ki: 1.62\npid_kd: 200.00\n\n[heater_bed]\nheater_pin: PB9\nsensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F\nsensor_pin: PC1\nmin_temp: 0\nmax_temp: 120\ncontrol: pid\npid_kp: 97.1\npid_ki: 1.41\npid_kd: 1675.16\n\n[bed_mesh]\nspeed: 200\nhorizontal_move_z: 2.5\nmesh_min: 5, 5\nmesh_max: 215, 215\nprobe_count: 5, 5\n\n[probe]\npin: PA1\nx_offset: -20.8\ny_offset: 0\nz_offset: 0\nsamples: 3\nsamples_result: average\nsamples_tolerance_retries: 3\nsample_retract_dist: 0.5\nspeed: 2\nlift_speed: 4\n\n[safe_z_home]\nhome_xy_position: 0, 0\nspeed: 5\nz_hop: 10\nz_hop_speed: 15\n\n[controller_fan controller_fan]\npin: PB12\n\n[heater_fan extruder_fan]\npin: PB13\n\n[fan]\npin: PB5\ncycle_time: 0.00005 #20kHz\n\n[output_pin enable_pin]\npin: PB6\nstatic_value: 1\n# This pin enables the bed, hotend, extruder fan, part fan.\n\n[mcu]\nserial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0\nrestart_method: command\n\n[printer]\nkinematics: cartesian\nmax_velocity: 300\nmax_accel: 500\nmax_z_velocity: 4\nmax_z_accel: 100\n

  5. Additional Starting Gcode

    This can be added to the main directory of klipper through the webui. Simply create a new file inside the directory named, gcode.cfg and paste the code below into it.

    Start Print Macro 
    [gcode_macro START_PRINT]\ngcode:\n    {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(60)|float %}\n    {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(190)|float %}\n    M140 S{BED_TEMP} ;Start bed heating\n    G21 ;metric values\n    G90 ;Use absolute coordinates\n    G28 ; Home all axes\n    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n    G1 X0.1 Y20 Z30 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\n    M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature\n    M190 S{BED_TEMP} ;wait bed temp\n    G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n    G1 Z0.3 ; Start close to bed\n    G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\n    G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\n    G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\n    G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n    G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish\n\n[gcode_macro END_PRINT]\ngcode:\n    M400 ; Wait for current moves to finish\n    M220 S100 ; Reset Speed factor override percentage to default (100%)\n    M221 S100 ; Reset Extrude factor override percentage to default (100%)\n    G91 ; Set coordinates to relative\n    G1 F2400 E-1 ; Retract filament 3mm at 40mm/s to prevent stringing\n    G0 F5000 Z20 ; Move Z Axis up 20mm to allow filament ooze freely\n    # Turn off bed, extruder, and fan\n    M140 S0\n    M104 S0\n    M106 S0\n\n    G90 ; absolute pos\n    G1 X5 Y220 F3000 ;clear head and bring bed to the front\n    # Disable steppers\n    M84 ; Disable stepper motors\n\n[delayed_gcode startup_gcode]\ninitial_duration: 0.1\ngcode:\n    G28\n\n#[gcode_macro POWER_OFF_PRINTER]\n#gcode:\n#  {action_call_remote_method(\n#    \"set_device_power\", device=\"printer\", state=\"off\"\n#  )}\n\n#[gcode_macro POWER_ON_PRINTER]\n#gcode:\n#  {action_call_remote_method(\n#    \"set_device_power\", device=\"printer\", state=\"on\"\n#  )}\n

    Info

    This gcode macro will auto-home your printer after it is connected to klipper.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#slicer-settings","title":"Slicer Settings","text":"

Within most slicers there is an area for start and end gcode. These fields contain gcode that is run at the start and end of a print, often for prepping or storing the print head before a print.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#start-print-field","title":"Start Print Field","text":"
M104 S0 ;for removing temp gcode added by slicer automatically\n\nM140 S0 ;for removing temp gcode added by slicer automatically\n\nSTART_PRINT BED_TEMP=bed_temp_variable_of_your_slicer EXTRUDER_TEMP=extruder_temp_variable_of_your_slicer\n
"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#end-print-field","title":"End Print Field","text":"
END_PRINT\n
"}]} \ No newline at end of file +{"config":{"lang":["en"],"separator":"[\\s\\-]+","pipeline":["stopWordFilter"]},"docs":[{"location":"index.html","title":"Welcome to My Mod Page!","text":""},{"location":"index.html#intro","title":"Intro","text":"

I decided to make a website to showcase my Kobra Go and the mods I\u2019ve performed to it.

I\u2019ll be keeping this up to date to the best of my ability!

"},{"location":"index.html#recommended-order-of-modifications","title":"Recommended Order of Modifications","text":""},{"location":"index.html#klipper","title":"Klipper","text":"

This upgrade can be performed on a stock machine, making it one of the most cost efficient upgrades.

"},{"location":"index.html#direct-drive","title":"Direct Drive","text":"

Cost and time will be the biggest sinks here, as wires will need to be extended and crimped. The cost also increases as a DD extruder must be obtained.

"},{"location":"index.html#enclosure","title":"Enclosure","text":"

The highest cost and time sink. Lots of components will be needed and lots of wires extended.

"},{"location":"index.html#current-status","title":"Current Status","text":""},{"location":"about.html","title":"About","text":"

Welcome to my journey modifying my Kobra Go! I initially got this printer on sale at MicroCenter as my very first. From here I started with their basic software and hardware but was unsatisfied with the print quality. Linear advance didnt work, the bed leveling was slow, and the print speeds were\u2026 ok.

As someone who enjoys tinkering I began doing just that! I decided to first post it on the unofficial anycubic subreddit. Soon after another user reached out to me that a github site may be ideal for easy updates and such, to which I agreed! So here we are!

I hope to keep this documentation as up-to-date as I can and as detailed as possible.

"},{"location":"mods/arctic-40mm.html","title":"Arctic 40mm Fan","text":"

Extremely worth it. Once dialed in with the correct voltage this fan can move some air! Not only can it move an adequate amount of air, it can do so with a low sound profile. This fan isnt \u2018silent\u2019 however it is much better than smaller fans in that it doesnt produce the annoying pitch that they do. Overall, highly recommended! Just be sure to trim the pot down a lot as this is a server fan and can spin up really fast.

"},{"location":"mods/arctic-40mm.html#installation","title":"Installation","text":"

This fan can be used on the HMG7 or on the ENLDI print head. Ensure that a buck converter is powering the fan from the hotend port on the motherboard.

Fan Speed!

Please be careful with this fan, these are 1U server fans and can spin up to 6K rpm (15k rpm on some versions). A fan this small at that speed can do some serious damage! Make sure you turn the buck converter down to around 5v to start and keep your fingers away from the blades.

"},{"location":"mods/belted-z-axis.html","title":"Belted Z-Axis","text":"

This belted z-axis mod from Kevin is one of the more involved upgrades one can perform on a Kobra Go. It involves replacing the two rear brackets with some 3D printed ones which then have to be modified to fit the eccentric nut that the Go uses. The crossbar of the frame must also be removed and replaced with a standard 2020 aluminum extrusion.

"},{"location":"mods/belted-z-axis.html#replacing-the-crossbar","title":"Replacing the Crossbar","text":"

In order to replace the crossbar one must obtain some 2020 aluminum extrusion. A single extrusion must then be cut to 330mm in length, and holes drilled through the top to secure it onto the frame. I used a drill press at work, and made a stencil to get the holes correct.

After this modification is complete, just follow the steps outlined in the guide on Kevins website! Oh also be sure to order one of the kits from the vendors he recommends! I ordered mine from DFH and had a good experience.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html","title":"Easy Mods","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#silicone-spacers","title":"Silicone Spacers","text":"

These spacers offer a much more consistent leveling process and wont warp the bed! The only catch is this mod needs one printed spacer to offset the creality cut-out.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#capricorn-bowden-tube","title":"Capricorn Bowden Tube","text":"

This is apparently a standard upgrade for the low end printer market. I personally have found this to make little to no difference, and recommend spending the money elsewhere.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#hotends","title":"Hotends","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#microswiss-hotend","title":"MicroSwiss Hotend","text":"

After owning this for about a year now I can say this: get a different hotend!

This product has been quite problematic for me as of recent. The beginning was great, everything worked well and was built well. However when it came to nozzle changes things got bad. This hotend uses a single set-screw to keep the heat block/throat attached to the heat-sink. Well, when one needs to change a nozzle they need to rotate the nozzle whilst holding the heat block to remove it. The single set screw is insufficient to properly hold it and will come loose every time. I\u2019ve even had it some loose after ~30hrs of print time, leading to many a clog!

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#e3d-revo-nozzle","title":"E3D Revo Nozzle","text":"

A worthy successor?

I will likely be upgrading to one of Revo3D\u2019s \u2018quick change\u2019 hotends. I\u2019ve found that I like to use a variety of diameters for my prints, easy nozzle changes would be awesome compared to what I\u2019m currently dealing with. When this upgrade is purchased I\u2019ll write a more complete review here.

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#pulleysframe","title":"Pulleys/Frame","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#steel-pulley-set","title":"Steel Pulley Set","text":""},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#y-axis","title":"Y-Axis","text":"

After some time I noticed that my y-axis began to squeak and have some irregular movement. When I took the stock end apart I saw that while there was a metal axle and bearing, the rest of the assembly was plastic! While not bad in theory, for my use case and faster speeds this simply would not do. Not only that, but over time the metal axle will eat into its plastic housing and cause the printer to become unaligned. I then looked into finding an all-metal y-axis and found this one! The y-axis fits stock, even using the stock bolt holes in the frame!

"},{"location":"mods/easy-mods.html#x-axis","title":"X-Axis","text":"

The pulley that comes in that kit is semi-compatible with the printer, but it will have to be at maximum extension and secured with only one bolt. If one wished they could drill and tap a new hole into the x-axis. I\u2019ve found that the single bolt is sufficient.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html","title":"The Enclosure","text":"

As many 3d printer enthusiasts will tell you, an enclosure is the best of all worlds. You can keep VOC\u2019s (mostly) contained, reduce temperature fluctuations, control ambient temp, and much more! It was (and still is) my goal to make an enclosure that is both compatible with the Kobra Go form factor and somewhat nice looking.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html#about-the-project","title":"About the Project","text":"

This has been a goal of mine ever since I obtained this printer. To build a \u2018bespoke\u2019 Lack enclosure for the printer. I initially was going to build one of the many existing projects out there, but found that none of them matched exactly what I wanted, nor did they fit the Go. I will be doing my best to fully document the build process, although not many photos were taken.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html#bought-parts-list","title":"Bought Parts List","text":"Item Quantity Description IKEA Lack Tables 3 These will form the structure of the enclosure. 22AWG Wire 1 Generic wire for various applications. Neodynium Magnets 1 These will be what secure the top to the enclosure. Govee LED Strip 1 These attach to the ceiling of the upper lid to provide light. 12v Fan PSU 1 Power for the two 120mm fans that will be used as exhaust and filter. Arctic BioniX P12 2 Fans for aformentioned filter and exhasut system. PWM Controller 2-3 These are needed for fan control for the exhausts and optional internal filter. PTFE Tubing/Fittings 1 Plenty of fittings for this project and future ones. WinSinn 12v 5015 Fans 2 This is a pack of four fans, these are quite useful for 3D printing in general, you only need two for this project though. Activated Carbon & Filter 1 These packs are made specifically for the bento box and are a great starting point if it will be part of your build! Fan Extensions 7 Be sure to order the 80cm versions as they will be needed to power the exhaust fans and filter from the PSU to the control panel. Plexiglass 2 609mm x 448mm x 4.5mm Plexiglass 1 606mm x 443mm x 4.5mm Metric Screw Set 1 Always good to have a spread of bolts and such for this project. Wood Screw Set 1 Wood screws that will be used to secure the feet into the legs. Plexiglass vs PVC Foam Board

Plexiglass is not the end-all-be-all. A cheaper (and probably better) alternative is some kind of PVC foam board. The enlcosure is designed for the following rear dimensions of 18in. x 24in. x 0.236in. Yes I realize I switched to imperial, I\u2019m sorry, thats just what the website says. I had to convert it in the design anyway. Other foam board can work as well so long as it is close to 4.5mm thick to fit into the slots in the legs.

Take Note!

More may be added to this list in the future, this is what I can recall in this moment. A lot more than those parts went into this design, the printer itself also had to be modified.

"},{"location":"mods/enclosure.html#printed-parts","title":"Printed Parts","text":"

I\u2019ve compiled all my parts into a zip file divided into sections for easy sorting and printing.

Item Author Description Enclosure Build Files @me These are the files for the bones of the enclosure, included the exhaust and handles etc. PTFE Tube Conduit @fuchsr Pass through tube for the filament into the enclosure. Bento Box @thrutheframe The bento box is an internal air scrubber that I find to be beneficial for stinkier filaments (ABS, ASA, etc.) Bento Box 5015 Adaptor @SSX556 This adaptor is included with the bento box, this modification moves more air in a quieter manner vs the stock box.

Developmental

Do keep in mind this is all in development and is my first time designing something that is as involved as this. I found building this to be a bit annoying as some of my tolerances were too tight. This may be an issue for you!

"},{"location":"mods/motherboard-swap.html","title":"Replacing the Mainboard","text":"

I was unsatisfied with the motherboard that the Kobra Go came with, the steppers arent swappable, the pinout isnt published, and the overall knowledge of the board is very limited.

"},{"location":"mods/motherboard-swap.html#bigtreetech-skr30","title":"BigTreeTech SKR3.0","text":"

I looked to some alternatives and settled on the BTT SKR3. This board is fully supported by both marlin and klipper and has extensive documentation hosted on its github. The main downside to this motherboard is its name: its not very well known in the maker-space. This can make finding bespoke tutorials for the board difficult. You will also need to procure stepper motors for this board, as it does not come with any.

"},{"location":"mods/motherboard-swap.html#bigtreetech-skr-mini-e3","title":"BigTreeTech SKR-Mini E3","text":"

The smaller brother of the SKR3 is the SKR Mini, a board with a smaller form factor and hard-wired stepper motors. The board is much more well known in the maker-space, being one of the most popular aftermarket boards available. I personally do not run the Mini, but see no reason why it would be less capable than the SKR3. You do lose the custom stepper motor choices, and some fan ports, as well as an entire stepper, but those may not be deal breakers. If you\u2019re looking for something basic and more cost effective than the SKR3, the Mini will suit you well!

"},{"location":"mods/orbiter-2.html","title":"Orbiter 2.0","text":"

The direct drive upgrade! I finally made this upgrade around August, what a game changer it has been! Bowden be gone, direct drive is in town! This upgrade, as with all, can be condensed into some pros and cons.

Pros

Cons

I highly recommend this modification, it has reduced printer downtime and increased print quality tremendously. That being said I would recommend you to invest in either the belted dual-z or a traditional lead screw z-axis to offset the increase weight of the drive. The x-axis can sag at full extension, best to keep that in mind if maintaining the OEM z-axis.

This mod was done in parallel to the ENDLI Orbiter 2.0 printhead mod. This combination is highly recommended!

"},{"location":"mods/print-heads.html","title":"Print Heads","text":""},{"location":"mods/print-heads.html#hero-me-gen7","title":"Hero Me Gen7","text":"

Pros

Cons

Carriage adapter endstop fix

I modified the carriage adapter ensuring it triggers the endstop correctly.

Although to start this was a good solution, I\u2019m sorry to say that the novelty wore on me. Not only was having dual 5015 fans overkill, the maintenance and annoyances I had with this setup far exceeded the nice print time I had with it. Valiant effort, but not for me.

"},{"location":"mods/print-heads.html#endli-orbiter-20","title":"ENDLI Orbiter 2.0","text":"

Pros

Cons

X-Endstop Compatibility

The ENDLI print head does not properly trigger the x-endstop. To combat this, I designed my own X-endstop mount which positions the switch such that it should hit the frame of the fan attached. I would recommend sensorless homing as well. It will work for stock setups and needs only minor modification.

After some debate I ended up replacing the standard Kobra Go carriage plate with one from an Ender 3 (Link here). I made this call after getting fed up with the lack of support in the general community. I could have modified countless files and made adapters, or I could spend a relatively small amount of money and save myself the headache. Cheating? Kind of. Worth it? Yes.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html","title":"Klipper for the Kobra Go!","text":"

Thanks to /u/xpeng121 we now have Klipper on the Go! Klipper is similar to marlin, but offloads a lot of the complex calculations to a head unit (pc/raspi) which allows for faster print speeds and artifact-reduction.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#euipment-needed","title":"Euipment Needed","text":"Item Quantity Description RaspberryPi/Linux Box 1 The \u2018head unit\u2019 of the operation, these handle the klipper instance. 32-Bit Motherboard with USB 1 The mainboard continues to operate the actual printer. It acts on instructions sent from the head.

Note on Pi Usage

A raspberry pi is not the end-all-be-all of a klipper setup, but it is one of the more compact and well supported solutions on the market. If a Pi is unobtainable for whatever reason, or out of your budget, dont worry! If you have an older laptop or PC you can use that to run klipper. You just need a machine that is capable of running linux, if you have that you can run klipper! To install and configure follow the guides on the main site, Klipper.org

This mod can be done with a completely stock machine! It should be the first upgrade one performs if they have the ability to do so.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#installing-klipper","title":"Installing Klipper","text":"

  1. Clone the klipper repository onto a local drive with the following command:

    git clone https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper.git

  2. To compile the firmware, follow the tutorial found on the official site: Klipper Installation and Configuration

  3. Once the firmware has been compiled, rename it from \u2018klipper.bin\u2019 to \u2018firmware.bin\u2019. Move the \u2018firmware.bin\u2019 file onto a microSD card of your choice, insert it into your printer, and wait about 5min. After the 5min is up remove the sd card and power cycle the printer.

  4. Config file:

    Continue to follow the klipper tutorial guide, the following is supplemental to the main guide.

    Warning

    Please review these settings and fully understand them before implementation. I\u2019ve blocked some out that could be problematic and should throw errors. Ensure this is correct before you deploy!

    Kobra Go 
    # This file contains a configuration for the Anycubic Kobra Go printer.\n#\n# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.\n#\n# To build the firmware, use the following configuration:\n#   - Micro-controller: Huada Semiconductor HC32F460\n#   - Communication interface: Serial (PA3 & PA2) - Anycubic\n#\n# Installation:\n#  1. Rename the klipper bin to `firmware.bin` and copy it to an SD Card.\n#  2. Power off the Printer, insert the SD Card and power it on.\n#  3. The the LCD will be stuck on the Firmware-update screen.\n#     Just Wait for 3-5 minutes to ensure the firmware is flashed.\n#  4. After waiting, shutdown the printer and remove the SD Card.\n\n[stepper_x]\nstep_pin: PA12\ndir_pin: PA11\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 40\nendstop_pin: !PH2\nposition_endstop: -13\nposition_min:-13\nposition_max: 236\nhoming_speed: 50\n\n[stepper_y]\nstep_pin: PA9\ndir_pin: PA8\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 40\nendstop_pin: ^!PC13\nposition_endstop: -9\nposition_min:-9\nposition_max: 230\nhoming_speed: 50\n\n[stepper_z]\nstep_pin: PC7\ndir_pin: !PC6\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 8\nendstop_pin: ^PC14\nposition_endstop: 0\nposition_min: -10\nposition_max: 255\nhoming_speed: 5\n\n[extruder]\nstep_pin: PB15\ndir_pin: PB14\nenable_pin: !PA15\nmicrosteps: 16\nrotation_distance: 31.07\nmax_extrude_only_velocity: 25\nmax_extrude_only_accel: 1000\nnozzle_diameter: 0.400\nfilament_diameter: 1.750\nheater_pin: PB8\nsensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2\nsensor_pin: PC3\nmin_extrude_temp: 170\nmin_temp: 0\nmax_temp: 250\ncontrol: pid\npid_kp: 19.56\npid_ki: 1.62\npid_kd: 200.00\n\n[heater_bed]\nheater_pin: PB9\nsensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F\nsensor_pin: PC1\nmin_temp: 0\nmax_temp: 120\ncontrol: pid\npid_kp: 97.1\npid_ki: 1.41\npid_kd: 1675.16\n\n[bed_mesh]\nspeed: 200\nhorizontal_move_z: 2.5\nmesh_min: 5, 5\nmesh_max: 215, 215\nprobe_count: 5, 5\n\n[probe]\npin: PA1\nx_offset: -20.8\ny_offset: 0\nz_offset: 0\nsamples: 3\nsamples_result: average\nsamples_tolerance_retries: 3\nsample_retract_dist: 0.5\nspeed: 2\nlift_speed: 4\n\n[safe_z_home]\nhome_xy_position: 0, 0\nspeed: 5\nz_hop: 10\nz_hop_speed: 15\n\n[controller_fan controller_fan]\npin: PB12\n\n[heater_fan extruder_fan]\npin: PB13\n\n[fan]\npin: PB5\ncycle_time: 0.00005 #20kHz\n\n[output_pin enable_pin]\npin: PB6\nstatic_value: 1\n# This pin enables the bed, hotend, extruder fan, part fan.\n\n[mcu]\nserial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0\nrestart_method: command\n\n[printer]\nkinematics: cartesian\nmax_velocity: 300\nmax_accel: 500\nmax_z_velocity: 4\nmax_z_accel: 100\n

  5. Additional Starting Gcode

    This can be added to the main directory of klipper through the webui. Simply create a new file inside the directory named, gcode.cfg and paste the code below into it.

    Start Print Macro 
    [gcode_macro START_PRINT]\ngcode:\n    {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(60)|float %}\n    {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(190)|float %}\n    M140 S{BED_TEMP} ;Start bed heating\n    G21 ;metric values\n    G90 ;Use absolute coordinates\n    G28 ; Home all axes\n    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n    G1 X0.1 Y20 Z30 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\n    M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature\n    M190 S{BED_TEMP} ;wait bed temp\n    G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n    G1 Z0.3 ; Start close to bed\n    G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\n    G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\n    G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\n    G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n    G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish\n\n[gcode_macro END_PRINT]\ngcode:\n    M400 ; Wait for current moves to finish\n    M220 S100 ; Reset Speed factor override percentage to default (100%)\n    M221 S100 ; Reset Extrude factor override percentage to default (100%)\n    G91 ; Set coordinates to relative\n    G1 F2400 E-1 ; Retract filament 3mm at 40mm/s to prevent stringing\n    G0 F5000 Z20 ; Move Z Axis up 20mm to allow filament ooze freely\n    # Turn off bed, extruder, and fan\n    M140 S0\n    M104 S0\n    M106 S0\n\n    G90 ; absolute pos\n    G1 X5 Y220 F3000 ;clear head and bring bed to the front\n    # Disable steppers\n    M84 ; Disable stepper motors\n\n[delayed_gcode startup_gcode]\ninitial_duration: 0.1\ngcode:\n    G28\n\n#[gcode_macro POWER_OFF_PRINTER]\n#gcode:\n#  {action_call_remote_method(\n#    \"set_device_power\", device=\"printer\", state=\"off\"\n#  )}\n\n#[gcode_macro POWER_ON_PRINTER]\n#gcode:\n#  {action_call_remote_method(\n#    \"set_device_power\", device=\"printer\", state=\"on\"\n#  )}\n

    Info

    This gcode macro will auto-home your printer after it is connected to klipper.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#slicer-settings","title":"Slicer Settings","text":"

Within most slicers there is an area for start and end gcode. These fields contain gcode that is run at the start and end of a print, often for prepping or storing the print head before a print.

"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#start-print-field","title":"Start Print Field","text":"
M104 S0 ;for removing temp gcode added by slicer automatically\n\nM140 S0 ;for removing temp gcode added by slicer automatically\n\nSTART_PRINT BED_TEMP=bed_temp_variable_of_your_slicer EXTRUDER_TEMP=extruder_temp_variable_of_your_slicer\n
"},{"location":"software/klipper.html#end-print-field","title":"End Print Field","text":"
END_PRINT\n
"}]} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/site/sitemap.xml.gz b/site/sitemap.xml.gz index 4220e351f4683506ef8113200811b881a0053f65..549456a0728d0315703d21e4a6418bf0988d1a7f 100644 GIT binary patch delta 12 Tcmb=gXOr*d;Apa($W{pe7cK*e delta 12 Tcmb=gXOr*d;BYXX$W{pe72E?x