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tinytoons.html
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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en">
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<meta name="description" content="" />
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<title>David McPhee's Personal Homepage</title>
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<div class="bTitle"><p><u><strong>LCD IoT</strong></u><p /></div>
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/thumbnail.jpg" alt="Thumbnail for OLED doorbell"></img>
This is a major hardware update from the CRT IoT project. 30 years in the future (from 1955), the
LCD TV was released and conveniently came with component ports. Unlike it's predecessor, the LCD IoT
actually has proper hardware.
<div class="bSub"><p><b>Where Did We Leave Off?</b><p /></div>
Whilst it is not strictly necessary to read the first iteration, <a href="https://davidmcphee.ca/crtoons">CRT IoT</a>,
it will give greater detail into the software and initial design. The CRT IoT ended because CRTs are actually not that
convenient and are hard to obtain with a component port. We left off with a working prototype on a small TV and had
these parts:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img1.jpg" alt="All parts"></img>
<div class="bSub"><p><b>What Changed?</b><p /></div>
This project became possible when I found a small LCD screen on Amazon. It was originally meant to be a back-up
monitor for trucks but it has component plugs so it works great for me. The LCD requires 12V DC which makes sense
because that is the power supply in almost every vehicle. Once the power and cables where connected:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img2.jpg" alt="Video working on LCD"></img>
It worked, which is great because it means I didn't waste money on buying the screen. The one thing that this screen
did not come with was audio. This stumped me for a little while until I found the Easy Button.
<div class="bSub"><p><b>That was Easy</b><p /></div>
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img3.jpg" alt="Easy Button"></img>
This is an "That was Easy" button from Staples. When you pushed the big red button, it would say "That was easy" quite
loudly. One thing led to another and the speaker was out of the button:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img4.jpg" alt="button torn apart"></img>
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img5.jpg" alt="Extracted speaker from button"></img>
This was a little too harsh and I realized (much later) that I destroyed the speaker's amplifier system as well. The button
used two AAA batteries so only a voltage of 3.0V which means it could have been powered with the Pi. Moving on, with the
speaker out I needed to determine the positive and negative wires which could just be done with a battery. If the leads
match the battery, there was a crackling noise. If it was reversed, there was no noise.
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img6.jpg" alt="Testing audio through battery"></img>
It was then tested through the component to 3.5 mm jack that was soldered in the CRT project.
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img7.jpg" alt="Testing audio through component"></img>
<div class="bSub"><p><b>All Together</b><p /></div>
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img8.jpg" alt="Audio Video working through component"></img>
It worked and sound was coming out of the speaker which was pretty cool! At the moment it was just duct taped to the
component cable but it was not a permanent solution. I wanted to make this project as small as possible so I
bypassed the cable and the audio port by soldering the speaker directly to the Pi board:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img9.jpg" alt="Speaker soldered to bottom of Pi"></img>
To figure out which pins were which, I used my make-shift continuity checker. Test time:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img10.jpg" alt="Test showing working audio and video"></img>
Again it worked! Now the only wiring step left was to figure out how to power both the Pi and the LCD with a single power
cable. I found two power bricks, one that converts wall power to 5V and another that converts it to 12V. I connected
the first brick:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img11.jpg" alt="AC cable to 5V power brick"></img>
This worked so I daisy chained the next brick onto that. I did attempt to solder the AC cable to the brick, but the prongs
were large so they didn't heat up as fast as I thought. I actually melted the plastic on the brick a little bit, whoops.
Everything was crammed into a nail box that was in my workshop:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img12.jpg" alt="All parts in box"></img>
You can see the daisy-chained power bricks on the right and the Pi, speaker and cables on the left. With the lid on the
result is:
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img13.jpg" alt="Finished Project, no tape"></img>
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img14.jpg" alt="Finished Project, tape"></img>
I taped it up to make it look more complete. There is a single power cable coming out the back, Ethernet and USB on the
side and the speaker with speaker holes on the front.
<div class="bSub"><p><b>Power and Audio</b><p /></div>
Using a power reader, the LCD IoT uses about 5.2 W of power which works out to about $3.00 a month if I leave it plugged
in 24/7, nice.
<img class="bImg" src="/includes/projects/tinytoons/img15.jpg" alt="AC Power Reader"></img>
The audio was too quiet, it can be heard if everything is still but not much else. I was able to crank up the internal
amplification settings on the omxplayer to about 50/100. If I went any higher than that the signal would clip and become
distorted.</ p>
I am pleased with how this turned out and that it can redeem what was the CRT IoT.
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david.mcphee3@gmail.com | MIT license unless otherwise stated
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