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Hunt the Lunpus

A hand-held 7-segment display game based on the ATtiny84.

lunpus

Based on the old Hunt the Wumpus text-based computer game originally published as BASIC source code in Creative Computing. The original is based on a dodecahedron maze but I first came across it as a grid-based cave game on the TI-99/4A we had as kids.

This handheld version has been renamed Hunt the Lunpus for obvious reasons once you consider the constraints of the display 😉

Video of the game in action!

Rules

You find yourself in a dark cave with the elusive Lunpus! You have your trusty bow and four arrows, let's see if you can defeat the Lunpus before it eats you!

There are dangers in the cave:

  • Superbats will pick you up and drop you into a random location.
  • Slime Pits are certain death if you accidently stumble upon one!
  • The Lunpus may eat you if you bother its sleep.

You can only see walls that are next to you, however the dangers

  • Blinking decimal points will warn you there is a Buperbat nearby.
  • The sound of wind will warn you there is a Slime Pit nearby.
  • The sound of snoring will warn you The Lunpus is nearby.

You only have 4 arrows, use them wisely! Once you have shot them all you lose. The Lunpus eventally finds and eats you.

Directions

  • Press ARROW to start a game.
  • Use the direction buttons (NORTH, SOUTH, EAST, WEST) to move around the cave. Walls appear as glowing segments.
  • Press ARROW to show you how many arrows you have left. Press a direction to fire one, otherwise press ARROW again to cancel.
  • Once you win (or more likely die) press ARROW again to start a new game.

Flashing the ATtiny84

Requirements

Once these are installed, wire up your ATtiny with a programmer. I use the AVR Pocket Programmer. If you use something different you will need to change settings in the Makefile.

First set the fuses to get the proper 8 MHz internal clock:

make set_fuses

Once that is successful you can flash the chip:

make ispload

The ispload command flashes the program and will also flash the EEPROM which is where all the music, text and "graphics" reside. The 8K flash memory is almost entirely taken up by the program (8146 bytes 99.4% Full) and the EEPROM is alsmot full as well (465 bytes 90.8% Full).

PCB

The pcb directory contains EasyEDA project files that define the schematic and PCB construction. Also in this directory is the latest generation of Gerber files for fabracation.

Schematic

Schematic_wumpus_2022-07-12

intro screen

Components

U1: 14-pin chip socket U1: ATTiny84 microprocessor U2: SN74HC595N microchip U3: Piezoelectric Speaker R1: 470Ω resistor R2, R3: 330Ω resistor C1, C2: 1nF ceramic capacitor SW1: DPDT Switch H1: 3xAAA Battery Holder LED1, LED2: 5611AS single digit 7-segment display NORTH, SOUTH, EAST, WEST, ARROW: tac switches (buttons)

Construction

All of the components should rest on the top of the circuit board with the silkscreen, the side with the word "Lunpus". All soldering happens on the reverse side, without the words.

  1. First solder on the resistors, R1, R2 and R3. Clip the excess leads. R1 is 470Ω, yellow, purple, brown, gold. R2 and R3 are 330Ω, orange, orange, brown, gold.
  2. Next solder on the capacitors C1 and C2, both are 1nF. Clip the excess leads.
  3. Solder on the five buttons. They will fit in the holes in one orientation.
  4. Solder the 14-pin chip socket in the U1 position. This is for the microcontroller. Ensure the notch on one end of the socket matches the notch on the circuit board.
  5. Solder on the SN74HC595N chip in the U2 position. Ensure the notch on one end of the chip matches the notch on the circuit board.
  6. Solder the speaker in the round position marked "Speaker". Clip the excess leads. Ensure the positive pin (+) matches what's on the circuit board.
  7. Solder the two 7-segment displays to the areas marked LED1 and LED2. IMPORTANT NOTE! The display on the right, LED2, needs to be soldered in upside down, with the decimal point on the top. Make sure the display matches what's printed on the circuit board.
  8. Solder the three-pin switch to SW1.
  9. Strip the leads from the battery holder to about 1.5 cm. Strip ends of the insulation of the last 1/2 cm to bare wire.
  10. Solder the battery holder leads to the + and - of H1. The red lead goes to +.
  11. Attach the battery holder to the back of the circuit board using double-sided foam tape.
  12. Insert the ATtiny84 into the chip socket after it has been flashed. Ensure the notch on the chip matches the notch of the socket. Be careful when inserting as pins can easily fold up underneath the chip.

Add 3 AAA batteries, turn on the switch and enjoy!

License

Creative Commons License
Lunpus by Doug McInnes is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.