Bump clap v4

[alex-hunt-materialize]

Bump clap to v4.5.23.
Also bumps criterion, to remove clap v3.

Motivation

Clap v3 has been out of date for years at this point, and we've been running yanked versions of it for a long time now.

Tips for reviewer

Checklist

• This PR has adequate test coverage / QA involvement has been duly considered. (trigger-ci for additional test/nightly runs)
• This PR has an associated up-to-date design doc, is a design doc (template), or is sufficiently small to not require a design.
• If this PR evolves an existing $T ⇔ Proto$T mapping (possibly in a backwards-incompatible way), then it is tagged with a T-proto label.
• If this PR will require changes to cloud orchestration or tests, there is a companion cloud PR to account for those changes that is tagged with the release-blocker label (example).
• If this PR includes major user-facing behavior changes, I have pinged the relevant PM to schedule a changelog post.

[def-]

Thanks for triggering nightly and making sure it's green! https://buildkite.com/materialize/nightly/builds/10765