Some notes on my Geeetech I3 Pro Alu 3D-Printer as well as a pre-configured Marlin firmware and a simple dockerized firmware builder.
- Assembly
- Send Gcode to the printer
- Custom Marlin Firmware
- Modifications
- Evolution of calibration cubes
- What's next?
- Useful links
- Author
- License
- some parts where not manfuctured very accurate (e.g. the holes in the x-axis idle ends), so I had to use a rasp to make the smooth rods fit.
- I had problems with the Z-axis (Z-axis often got stuck) until I mounted the Z-Axis nuts as shown here:
Use a terminal like e.g. picocom to send gcode commands directly to the printer:
$ picocom --imap lfcrlf -c -b 250000 /dev/ttyUSB0
G28<ENTER>End picocom with CTRL+A CTRL+Q.
Alternatively run make terminal if using the firmware builder.
TODO
The printer is controlled by the so-called "3-in-one" printer box, which hosts a GT2560.
I updated the firmware to marlin v1.1.9 with manual bed levelling enabled.
The firmware directory contains my marlin configurations as well as infos on how to use my self-contained dockerized firmware builder.
Log of the modifications I did over the time, in chronological order.
After getting the printer up and running, this was the first upgrade I printed, which improved overall printing quality. It's also possible to add a distance sensor, which I obviously not yet have added. Since I use the manual bed levelling feature of Marlin, levelling became very easy, so that an auto levelling sensor has no priority for me at the moment.
Printed, but not yet installed.
- Model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1424358
- See it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYswkbC_AX0
The base clamps stabilize the printer on the the board.
In June 2020 I modified the 3d-printer to use a E3Dv6 hotend and a bowden extruder.
I again changed the extruder (22.06.2020) to this Redrex model. This time, it came with proper instructions and is overall of better quality than the old one.
I used this mount to attach the bowden extruder to the aluminium frame of the I3A Pro: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513863
I attached the mount to the left side of the printer.
To mount the E3Dv6 I used this mount with integrated cooling:
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1632847 and this X-Carriage:
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2514659
The X-Carriage uses M3 screws while the E3Dv6 mount uses M4 screws, I ended up enlarging the drill holes of the X-Carriage to M4 size. I also needed to extend the Z-Axis end switch screw, which originally was to short for use with the new X-Carriage.
The new fan and duct used (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1632847) are so effective, that at 100% fan power, I always got "E1 Thermal runaway" errors. By limiting the fan power to 50% (in Cura) everything was fine.
The fan is connected to the PWM FAN connector (upper two pins).
The fan can be tested using gcode commands:
- Turn nozzle fan (
P0) off:M106 P0 S0 - Set nozzle fan to 50%:
M106 P0 S128
- Max fan speed 50%
I replaced the original filament spool by this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2185015
Let's see how it works (25.06.2020)
Testcubes printed in chronological order 1..6..10, A..C etc. Unfortunately I lost some of my notes which documented the printer settings used :-(
1- my first "successful" 3d-print
A- after switch to Marlin 1.1.9, 210° / 50°B- 210° / 50° - last print with original MK8 hotendC- 210° / 50° - first print with E3Dv6 bowden setup. Significant improvements in the details and reduced ghosting.
- auto bed levelling
- install Z-axis anti-wobble
- test different printing beds (e.g. glass)
- test marlin 2.0 firmware
- Firmware official: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17046
- i3a Pro community provided firmware: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=62050
(c) 2020 by Jan Delgado
MIT