Fix/chromedriver and playground setup

[coolsoftwaretyler]

Hey folks,

I'm poking around to see if I can help with #55.

Here's some cleanup I had to do to get started.

1. Bumped chromedriver way up to latest version
2. Not really sure what node version makes sense here, but 18 is still reasonably old and I think the only main compatibility changes we need are the openss-legacy-provider setting
3. Updated the HACKING doc because it was using yarn, but this project has package-lock.json and a lot of the scripts are written with npm run
4. Bumped .nvmrc to the v18 I was using.

This was enough to get me to successfully install the dependencies and run the playground script, although I see tests are failing. I think the old setup has some deprecated settings that we'll need to untangle before we can do much here.